Essaouira is Morocco at its most relaxed and romantic. Wind-swept beaches, a UNESCO-listed medina, art-filled riads, and a creative spirit that has quietly drawn queer travelers for decades make this coastal town one of the country’s most rewarding stops for LGBTQ+ visitors.
While Morocco is culturally conservative and public displays of affection aren’t advised (for any couples, gay or straight), our experience on the ground in Essaouira was overwhelmingly welcoming, warm, and refreshingly human. Thoughtful hosts, subtle allyship, and an easygoing energy define the stay here—especially when you choose the right hotels, restaurants, and experiences.
Below is our complete, no-corners-cut guide to where to stay, what to do, and where to eat and drink in Gay Essaouira—based entirely on our own travels.
Essaouira, Morocco
Why Visit Gay Essaouira?
Unlike Morocco’s larger cities, Essaouira has long attracted travelers looking for freedom, creativity, and a slower pace of life. In the 1960s and 70s, this windswept port city became a refuge for bohemian artists, writers, and musicians from around the world — including many from the LGBTQ+ community — who were drawn to its openness, independence, and countercultural spirit.
That legacy still lingers today. You feel it in the medina’s art scene, the live music drifting through hidden courtyards, and the quietly welcoming way locals engage with international visitors.
ESSAOUIRA TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
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Le Jardin des Douars
Where to Stay
Where you stay in Essaouira shapes your entire experience. Some travelers prefer the immersive energy of a historic medina riad, where restaurants, shops, and evening strolls are right outside the door. Others gravitate toward the peaceful luxury of countryside resorts just beyond the city, where gardens, pools, and spa time take center stage. The good news? Essaouira delivers on both — and the best stays balance privacy, authenticity, and a quietly welcoming approach that LGBTQ+ travelers will appreciate.
Le Jardin des Douars
⭐ Best for: Romantic escapes, spa lovers & total tranquility 📍 Location: Hills outside Essaouira (15 minutes from the medina)
Why We Love It:
Boutique resort set inside a protected valley—sheltered from coastal winds
Two heated pools, including an adults-only infinity lap pool
Lush gardens, hammam, spa & beautifully designed rooms and villas
Le Jardin des Douars Le Jardin des Douars feels more like a private Moroccan estate than a hotel. Hidden behind terracotta walls, the property unfolds into palm-filled gardens, secret courtyards, and quietly luxurious spaces designed to slow you down instantly. The guest mix is wonderfully international—honeymooners, couples, creative types—and during our stay, it felt subtly and comfortably queer in the best possible way.
Staff were attentive and discreet, offering thoughtful gestures like a couples spa suite and personal recommendations from the owner himself. Breakfast is included, Sundays feature an unforgettable barbecue, and live music nights naturally bring guests together without ever feeling forced.
Steps from dining, shopping & nightlife in the medina
If you want to wake up inside Essaouira’s historic heart, Riad Chbanate is a beautiful choice. This lovingly restored riad offers classic Moroccan architecture—arched doorways, tiled courtyards, and soft lantern light—paired with modern comfort.
It’s especially ideal if you want to explore the medina on foot, pop out for dinner, or enjoy late-night strolls through the old town. We happily spent a few nights here after relaxing in the hills.
⭐ Best for: Luxury medina stay & romantic evenings 📍 Location: Inside the Essaouira medina
Why We Love It:
Relais & Châteaux elegance with standout service
Courtyard lounges, English Bar & rooftop pool views
One of the medina’s most refined hotel experiences
L’Heure Bleue is where classic European refinement meets Moroccan charm. Even as non-guests, we were treated with exceptional warmth—including a surprise offer for a private rooftop sunset that remains one of our most romantic moments in Morocco.
If you want an upscale base that feels timeless, intimate, and unmistakably special, this is the medina’s top splurge.
Essaouira invites you to slow down. Days here unfold naturally—wander, eat, ride, relax, repeat.
Sunset Camel Ride on the Beach
One of the most unforgettable experiences in Essaouira is a sunset camel ride along the wide, windswept beach. The light turns golden, the ocean stretches endlessly, and the pace is beautifully unhurried. Bring a jacket—the breeze picks up quickly.
Essaouira’s medina is calmer and more navigable than Marrakech, making it ideal for wandering. Explore artisan workshops, blue-and-white streets, spice stalls, and art galleries without feeling overwhelmed.
Moroccan Cooking Workshop Moroccan Cooking Workshop at L’Atelier Madada
For travelers who love food as culture, this hands-on Moroccan cooking class is a must. Learn the fundamentals of tagines, spices, and local techniques in a beautiful setting. Book early—spots sell out fast.
Lazy afternoons don’t get better than Ocean Vagabond. Think pizzas, chilled wine, surfers wandering in and out, and endless sea views. It’s casual, social, and effortlessly cool.
Watch the Fishermen at the Port
The working port is raw, colorful, and photogenic. Watch fishermen haul in the catch of the day and seagulls fight for scraps—it’s lively, loud, and unmistakably real.
More Adventures
If you want to crank things up, Essaouira delivers. From windswept beaches to open countryside, this is one of Morocco’s top coastal adventure hubs. Popular options include horseback riding along the shoreline, quad biking through dunes and rural trails, and kitesurfing, thanks to the city’s famously consistent Atlantic winds.
We recommend booking through Viator, a trusted platform with top-rated traveler experiences, verified reviews, and flexible cancellation — especially helpful when weather conditions matter.
Essaouira’s dining scene blends Moroccan tradition with international flair, offering everything from lively, performance-driven dinners to relaxed cafés perfect for lingering lunches and people-watching inside the medina.
Le Love by Caravane
⭐ Best for: Dinner, live music & unofficial gay night out 📍 Location: Essaouira medina
Le Love by Caravane is the closest thing Essaouira has to a gay bar—and it’s an absolute blast. Tables of gay men, champagne flowing, live performers on stage, and by the end of the night, the entire restaurant turns into a dance party. Come hungry, come dressed, and come ready to stay later than planned.
🌟 Pro tip – For deeper insights into gay life in Essaouira and navigating Morocco as an LGBTQ+ traveler, head over to our Patreon.
La Table by Madada
⭐ Best for: Elegant dinner & standout service 📍 Location: Essaouira medina
A visually stunning restaurant with soaring arches and refined Moroccan-Mediterranean cuisine. Everything we ordered—from linguine with clams to the chicken special—was excellent. Staff are handsome as well!
L’Atelier is one of those places you stumble into and immediately want to stay all afternoon. The café serves fresh juices, colorful salads, elevated sandwiches, and utterly sinful desserts, making it an ideal midday stop after wandering the medina.
What really sets L’Atelier apart is the boutique space attached to the café, stocked with beautiful home goods, ceramics, textiles, and gifts — the kind of place where you suddenly realize you’ve found all your souvenirs in one stop.
🌟 Pro tip – If you love to cook (or eat), don’t miss their Moroccan Cooking Workshop, one of the best hands-on food experiences in Essaouira and often fully booked — reserve early.
English Bar at L’Heure Bleue
⭐ Best for: Pre-dinner cocktails or a cozy nightcap 📍 Location: L’Heure Bleue, Essaouira medina
For something quieter and refined, the English Bar delivers polished cocktails in an intimate setting—perfect before or after dinner. You can enjoy you beverage with live music on the patio or by the fireplace in the bar with Colonial-inspired decor.
Art-filled Street in the Medina
When to Go
Essaouira is a year-round destination, but the vibe shifts noticeably with the seasons — from breezy beach days and festival energy to cozy medina evenings and relaxed, crowd-light travel.
Spring (March–May): Ideal Weather & Cultural Energy Spring is one of the best times to visit Essaouira. Daytime temperatures are comfortable, skies are clear, and the medina feels lively without being overwhelming. It’s perfect for walking tours, cooking classes, beach time, and sunset camel rides.
Spring also aligns with cultural events, music performances, and creative energy that reflect Essaouira’s artistic roots — making it a favorite season for LGBTQ+ travelers who enjoy slower, culturally rich travel.
Summer (June–August): Windy, Social & Festival-Forward Summer brings long days and plenty of sunshine, but also strong Atlantic winds, especially in July and August. This makes Essaouira a top destination for kitesurfing and wind sports, while keeping temperatures cooler than inland cities like Marrakech.
The medina stays social, restaurants buzz at night, and beach clubs remain active. If you don’t mind the breeze, summer delivers energy and atmosphere without extreme heat.
Fall (September–October): Warm, Relaxed & Romantic Early fall is another standout season and when we traveled. Winds ease, the ocean is still swimmable, and crowds thin after summer peak. It’s an ideal time for couples, honeymooners, and anyone seeking a calmer, more intimate experience.
This is one of our favorite windows for luxury stays, spa days, and lingering dinners.
Winter (November–February): Quiet, Cozy & Great Value Winter in Essaouira is mild compared to much of Europe, with sunny days and cooler evenings. While beach days are less common, the medina feels cozy, hotels offer excellent value, and cafés and restaurants remain lively.
It’s a great time for cultural travelers, photographers, writers, and anyone seeking a peaceful coastal escape.
Supratours Bus to Marrakech
Getting Here & Around
Getting to Essaouira takes a little more planning than Morocco’s major hubs — but the journey is part of the adventure, and once you’re here, everything slows down beautifully.
By Air: Most travelers fly into Marrakech Menara Airport (airport code: RAK), Morocco’s best-connected international gateway with nonstop flights from Europe, the UK, and select long-haul routes.
From Marrakech, Essaouira is approximately three hours by car. The drive is scenic and straightforward, passing argan forests and rolling countryside.
Supratours Bus (station is a short walk outside the medina)
Rental car if you plan to explore the coast independently
Essaouira also has a small airport (airport code: ESU) with limited European seasonal flights, but service is inconsistent, so Marrakech remains the most reliable option.
Getting Around the City
Once in Essaouira, getting around is refreshingly simple.
The medina is fully walkable, and most restaurants, riads, and attractions are within minutes of each other
Taxis are inexpensive for short hops or trips outside the city
Many resorts (including hilltop properties) offer shuttle services into town
If you're staying outside the medina, confirm shuttle schedules in advance (they book up for peak times) so you can enjoy dinners and nightlife stress-free.
🌟 Pro tip – Always carry travel insurance. We recommend SafetyWing to cover everything from lost luggage to unexpected medical expenses abroad.
Le Jardin des Douars
Frequently Asked Questions & Travel Tips
Is Essaouira LGBTQ+ friendly?
Essaouira is one of Morocco’s most relaxed and quietly accepting destinations. While homosexuality is technically illegal nationwide, on the ground Essaouira feels open, artistic, and accustomed to international travelers. Discretion is important, but we consistently felt welcomed, respected, and at ease — especially in hotels, restaurants, and creative spaces.
Is public affection okay in Essaouira?
Public displays of affection are frowned upon for both same-sex and opposite-sex couples in Morocco. Holding hands, kissing, or overt affection in public is best avoided.
How do I get around the city?
Essaouira is very easy to navigate on foot. The medina is compact, flat, and pedestrian-friendly. For longer distances or beach clubs outside town, taxis or hotel shuttles are the best option.
Can you drink the tap water in Essaouira?
Tap water is not recommended for drinking. Stick to bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth. Bottled water is inexpensive and widely available everywhere.
Do I need to know Arabic or French?
No. While Moroccan Arabic (Darija) and French are widely spoken, English is commonly used in hotels, riads, restaurants, and tour operations — especially in Essaouira, which is very tourism-oriented.
Is Essaouira safe for LGBTQ+ travelers?
Yes (in our experience), especially when practicing situational awareness and cultural respect. Essaouira is considered one of Morocco’s safest and most welcoming towns for international visitors. As in any destination, avoid drawing unnecessary attention and follow local norms.
Le Jardin des Douars
Final Thoughts
Essaouira surprised us—in the best possible way. It’s romantic without being performative, welcoming without labels, and deeply atmospheric. Between its art-soaked medina, soulful dining, and serene resorts, this seaside town offers LGBTQ+ travelers something rare: space to breathe.
If you’re curious about Morocco but want a softer landing, Essaouira is the perfect place to begin.
Ready to plan? Book your hotel early, reserve your tours ahead of time, and don’t forget travel insurance—we always use SafetyWing for peace of mind.
🌟 Pro tip – Ready to plan your trip? Check out top Essaouira hotels, thrilling adventures on Viator, and don’t forget travel insurance with SafetyWing for peace of mind.
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