Amtrak Empire Builder Review – Chicago to Portland/Seattle
From the sprawling plains of the Midwest to the stunning mountains of the Pacific Northwest, this iconic route offers adventure, breathtaking scenery, and a touch of nostalgia.
Overview
After years of dreaming about this trip, we finally saved enough points to score two first-class tickets on Amtrak’s Empire Builder from Chicago to Portland in a Superliner one-bedroom suite—all for under 50,000 points!
Spanning over 2,200 miles across some of the most picturesque landscapes in the U.S., this two-night, three-day journey has plenty of highlights.
Read on to discover every detail of this bucket-list train journey—from lounge access and accommodations to dining, scenic highlights, and tips to help you make the most of your trip!
Lounge Access
Our adventure begins at Chicago’s Union Station, where we checked into Amtrak’s complimentary Metropolitan Lounge reserved for sleeping car passengers. If you’re looking for a quieter experience, here’s a tip: head upstairs once inside the lounge. The upper level was nearly empty and felt like a private, luxurious retreat.
Regular boarding announcements are made in the lounge, and sleeping car passengers are escorted in small groups directly to the train—smooth and hassle-free!
Boarding
Boarding was straightforward, but we hit one hiccup: the Amtrak app didn’t display key details like our train number or bedroom assignment. Luckily, we had access to our PDF confirmation email, which contained all the information we needed. Be sure to download or print your PDF ticket before arriving at the station—it’s a lifesaver!
Portland-bound passengers were directed to the rear sleeping car, while Seattle-bound passengers were seated toward the front. Fun fact: being at the back of the train not only kept us closer to the lounge car but also farther from the horn-blaring engine, making for a quieter night’s sleep!
Accommodations
Our Superliner one-bedroom suite was everything we hoped for:
- A private bathroom and shower
- A convertible double bed, a single pull-down bed, and a table for two
- Plenty of space for two people, plus four towels and four pillows for extra comfort
Located in the last car of the train, we enjoyed a smooth and peaceful ride while soaking up panoramic views. The room provided just the right balance of functionality and comfort for the two-night journey, and we appreciated the friendly service from our sleeping car attendant, Larry.
Dining
Shortly after departing Chicago, the dining car attendant visited our room to take reservations for meals. A word of advice: book the earliest time slot to ensure your preferred menu items don’t run out!
Our first dinner in the dining car set a high bar:
- Starters: Lobster crab cake and a green salad
- Mains: Tortellini pasta and roasted chicken
- Desserts: Carrot cake and an incredibly decadent chocolate cake
Each meal included an appetizer, main course, dessert, and one alcoholic beverage, with complimentary coffee and bottled water available at all times. The dining car’s white tablecloths, fresh roses, and panoramic windows created a charming and relaxing atmosphere.
Also, unless you’re traveling in a group of three or more, you’ll likely share a table with other passengers. We found this to be a highlight of the trip, as we met fascinating travelers with incredible stories to share.
For those in economy class, note that access to the dining car isn’t available. As such, most coach passengers brought coolers with their own food or relied on the limited options in the café car.
Scenic Highlights
The Empire Builder route is packed with jaw-dropping views, but these moments were especially memorable:
- Mississippi River at sunset: The golden glow of the river is a photographer’s dream.
- Glacier National Park: Towering peaks, lush forests, and dramatic landscapes make this stretch unforgettable.
- Columbia River Gorge: For Portland-bound passengers, the breathtaking arrival with the snow-capped Mount Hood in the distance is one of the route’s most magical moments.
Travel Tips
To make the most of your journey, keep these tips in mind:
Pack snacks and essentials: While dining car meals are included for first-class passengers, having extra snacks and beverages is always a good idea.
Bring layers: Temperatures can fluctuate on the train, so pack a sweater or blanket for added comfort.
Download entertainment: Wi-Fi is limited or just plain slow, so download movies, books, or podcasts before boarding.
Plan for delays: Freight traffic can occasionally delay Amtrak trains, so build some buffer time into your travel plans.
Final Thoughts
Our journey on Amtrak’s Empire Builder from Chicago to Portland was everything we hoped for—and more! From the friendly service and comfortable accommodations to the awe-inspiring views and charming dining experiences, this train ride is a must for anyone looking to slow down and savor the beauty of cross-country travel.
Would we do it again? Absolutely. This experience has inspired us to explore more of Amtrak’s long-distance routes. Stay tuned for future reviews as we tackle more epic train journeys!
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Hi gorgeous, and welcome to our LGBTQ+ travel blog! We're Andy and Trai, a gay couple traveling the world with PRIDE 🌈 …and our rescue dog, Pattie!
After meeting in San Francisco in 2018 and later moving to Chicago, we decided to quit our jobs in 2021, sell everything, and become Two Gay Expats. For over two years, we explored the best of gay Mexico while waiting for our house, Casa Cangrejo, to be completed in Tulum. We got married at The Beach Tulum in 2020 and became Mexican permanent residents in 2022.
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